Change the gear box oil.

Fuel tank prep

This tank is second hand and I found a few pin hole leaks. Unlike the manual, I welded up some areas that looked to be weak. It has never had any petrol in it since I've had it (a few months). I though I should seal it properly as well.

First of all I used some metal ready. Sealed the tank the best I could and agitated it to cover all internal surfaces.


I left it for several hours in each position.

Final bits for the engine

Some new bits arrive from ebay.
Oil breather (braided) tube
Jubilee clips for breather tube
Bolt/split washers/ nuts for tinware M6 stainless
Bolt/split washers/ nuts for steering M10 stainless (wrong size!!!)



Stainless jubilee clips for the air hoses



Box of assorted circlips.


As the engine had been running I had to dismantle a few bits to remove the fan shroud housing.


I also needed to fit the flap thermostat which I had not done. You can just see the threaded end of the arm which attaches to the thermostat protruding between the 4 tubes.


The old fuel line wasn't in to bad a shape but for some reason it was in 2 bits with a connector joining it. So I replaced it. Just taped the new to the old and pulled it through.


Came through surprisingly easily.


Circlips now hold the flap control arm in place.


Clipped the new fuel line in place and used a bit of the old oil breather hose to protect it where it goes through the tinware.


New jubilee clips on the air hoses.


New oil breather hose and clips.


The new thermostat fitted with the old support. I had to file it down a bit so it could expand correctly.


All tinware screws replaced with stainless bolts.

Gear selector cover plate - front axel

Front axel - Stabaliser bar

Wasn't sure how this went on if I'm honest. I looked at the Haynes manual and some web pages but it wasn't clear.


I found this to be the wrong way round for the clamp. It is facing the correct way, tapered edge away from the wheel but it should come together at the bottom over the rubber bush.


This is correct.

Replacing the heater exchanger cables

When fitting the old cables the end snapped off. It was quite straight forward to replace them. It just requires taking the lever apart to get the end of the cable out.

Brake line - rear exit washer

I'm not sure if this is the correct rubber bung for this. I found it in my 'bits removed' box. At first I couldn't get it to fit so I had to file out the hole a little. Also some washing up liquid helps!



As you can see, there is still a gap around the break line which will need filling in. I might try some expanding foam or similar.