Starting the engine - wiring 3

The new bits arrive.
I was thinking of trying electronic ignition but from what I've read the fuel/ power benefits are minimal and I don't expect to set the points too often.
The extra incentive is in price. New HT leads, distributor cap, rotar arm, contact set and condenser for £26 ish.


Condenser fitted.


Contact set fitted.


Time to try and start it!

Starting the engine - wiring 2

I attached a ground wire to the engine block. A wire from the positive to the starter solenoid. Then I wired a switch to the starter and tried turning it over. The starter spun and the engine kind of spluttered, but that was it.

I had already changed the sparks.


The contact breaker was a little pitted, so I cleaned it.


I cleaned the contact points in the distributor cap.


I thought I should check the ht leads when one came out without its metal contact. As you can see here (above) the right socket is corroded.

Here is the HT lead without its contact.

Starting the engine was on hold for a week whilst I ordered some bits.

Starting the engine - wiring

So, for the first time for 5/6 years the engine has not been turned over. Its been kept under a tarp, outside.

The wire from the choke, goes round the back of the carb...





To the cutoff valve on the right. It then connects to the coil on the positive side (left terminal). Also, not seen it a wire running from the positive side of the battery.

The wire on the right side of the coil runs to the condenser.

Below is the oil pressure switch.

I've just connected the interior light to it. One end connects to the battery, the other, the switch.

Cleaning up the last bits

Doors, Bonnet & Boot - attaching to body

Doors, Bonnet & Boot - undercoat & topcoat

Doors and bonnet - cleaning for painting