Fan housing repair

Previously I have removed the rust and paint to find some holes in the metal.


A close up of some of the holes.


At first I tried to fill the holes with weld only. That just let to larger holes being created! So I tried a patch.


The same thing happened, just around the patch. I postponed the repair of the fan housing as there was one going on ebay for £10!

The internal flaps that control the flow of the air had to be drilled out in places. Then the rest of the captive nut was removed. Those I could reach, I used a grinder. The rest where filed down by hand!

Stove pipe repair

The stove pipe that warms the air/ fuel mixture from the carburettor had a small leak. Nothing major but I filled the bottom pipe (from the exhaust) with white spirit to keep it clear, and found a small leak.


Not having welded for a couple of years (and never doing it properly!) I thought I should try and seal it. The pipe are located in the cool air area so it would be good to minimize any unnecessary warm air.


The leak was between the two pipes which are separate but held together with the metal cover in the middle.

Painting the Brakes, oil cooler and rocker covers

Front brake drum painted.


Oil cooler.


Rocker cover.

The gear selector rod and coupling

I fitted the coupling including the small screw that connects the gear selector rod to the gearbox.


It rests just above the hole it will eventually be seen through.

Fitting the brake hoses and pipes 2

A closeup of one end of the brake hoses, with its securing nut beside.


The brake line attached to the brake cylinder.


A wider shot showing the brake line and hose at the rear.


The same shot but reversed, brake drum to floor.

The gear selector rod in place

I wanted to see how the gear selector rod would fit. It needed to go through the inspection hole to the rear of the tunnel.


There is a holder that the rod passes through in the middle of the tunnel. It can just be made out here.


The is the view from where the gear stick sits. the end of the rod and the hole through which it must pass can be seen more clearly.



The rod in place but above the tunnel. It seems to be longer than needed and I'm not sure why.

The pedal cluster

The parts that make the pedal cluster.


The outer spindle placed through the Clutch and then brake pedal.


The inner spindle placed through the outer. In other words, the assembled pedal cluster.


The pedals in place, note the brake pedal is connected to the pushrod that activates the master cylinder.


The view from the other side. The accelerator cable attaches this side from the tube seen here. On the other side can be seen the rubber wheel that is pushed by the accelerator pedal.

The brakes lines

The brake lines I bent by hand to fit. As long as it is done carefully I found no problem doing it this way. This is the hose connecting with the line on the passenger side rear.


It continues up and around the end of the gearbox.


There it meets a T connector.


The top connection is from the passenger side brake. The left extends to the drivers side brake. The right connector goes forward to the master cylinder.


The brake line going forwards where it goes through, along the floor, on the inside.


As you can see the brake line follows the side of the tunnel. On the other side of the tunnel was where it usually runs, being a left hand floor, and there are clips to hold it in place. These need to be added on this side.


The opposite view, looking back.


The line bending with the shape of the floor as much as possible.



At the front it must bend around under where the pedal cluster goes and through the wall again.





Before the line is bent into place.


The line bent into shape and connected to the master cylinder.


The brake reservoir attached.

Adding the front brake cylinders

Having previously cleaned the brakes, I had removed the cylinders.


I refitted the brake adjusters taking care to ensure the groove meets the shoe correctly (they slope inwards).


The brake cylinder was cleaned and replaced.


A small amount of grease was placed on the protrusion, on the rear on the brake drum, to allow easy movement and prevent squeaking.


A close up of the spring and retaining washer that hold the shoes inplace.


The assembled brake components, including springs, ready for the brake drum.

Fitting the brake hoses and pipes

I have fitted goodridge stainless steel hoses front and back.


The brake hoses clips where not required as the hoses had a bolt and nut that secured them.


The rear brake line, copper nickel, should not be susceptible to rust. I bent them by hand and with care.


The brake line, before it is bent, comes straight out of the rear brake cylinder.


The brake line connected to the hose.