Felicity slush fund currently:

£1,409.29

Sunday, 23 May 2010

Noting where the labels are.

A view of the spare wheel well.
No idea what this one means?

This is obvious.
The colour code.
On the passenger door, next to the top hinge.

No 6 volt system here.

Regulator

Left it in when I stripped the car. Can't explain why.
Now I've removed it.

Removing the headliner

This was simple enough, though a little tricky.With a stanley knife I cut out the material. Every 10-15 inches there are metal, coat hanger style, bars that hold the headliner up. They where only held in by the material so I managed to rip them free and bend them in the middle ti poke one end out of the gutter they are caught in.



The difficult bit was removing the cardboard/material edge that caught in the gutter. You can't really see it or reach it. I used a combination of perseverance and a metal hook to ease it over the gutter. Best thing was I found the remains of a mouse house. Droppings can be seen above. The top bit of fluff is circular and looked like what I image they would call home.

The Body

I visited the current resting place of Felicity and removed all the items that would ensure I had only the body to contend with when removing the rust, replacing metal as required and a paint job.
The windows where the first things to be removed. There are videos online that show how to remove the glass with the seals intact. But mine where cracking and it is easier to cut them off. So I did.

The same procedure follows for all the glass, not including the doors.

From the inside I cut away all the rubber that is holding on to the glass. The rubber is pretty thick and I had to make two cuts. The first is depicted below. The second cut removed the rubber to the left of the blade in the picture and was made at right angles.

As I cut I just pulled at the rubber and hoped it would continue as much as possible, reducing the amount of cutting required.Then I was left with the rubber on the window only. I only removed all the rubber on the rear windows as they would not push out and I was afraid of breaking the glass. On the rear and front windscreen I only removed the top and side rubber. They both came away very easily.On the outside I made a cut and the rubber pulled free very easily.
At this point the window was free and I just lifted it out.It didn't tak too long to remove the rest.

Wednesday, 19 May 2010

New stuff

Not very exciting but necessary. Oil change kit x3, fan belt, box of exhaust fixings and hub seal kits x 2.

Thermostat test

Mt thermostat broke when I removed it. At least the push rod that screws into it didn't come out. Not sure how easy it will be to remove but if I can it will save mew around £40-50. But before I put any effort in I wanted to see if it worked!

Generator backplate kit

Once the fan is removed just two nuts hold these bits on that attach the generator to the fan shroud.

Fortunately they came apart easily. Just need to remove the rust.
Got these bits in the post. Halford just isn't very competitive when it comes to ebay. Not sure these are the best but I'm sure they will grind down to nothing soon.

Fly wheel rust removeal

The flywheel had rust internally and I was unable to reach with a wire brush, so I tried this dip.
You add water, which is a bit strange and leave it for 24 hours.

Then you give those areas a scrub with a brush and the rust is gone.

Friday, 14 May 2010

Gear box with axels cleaning


Looking at what is required to take apart the gearbox and thefact that it was working fine before I took it out of the car, I decided to only clean it up, remove the rust and paint it.Almost there. Had some bags on the axels as they tend to leak oil when tilted down.

I will replace the 2 cv boot joints (seen here) and the hub seals.

Tinware painting

Got some heat resistant paint today.

And more wire brushes!
These have got arbours that screw together got the brush to fit in the drill. I have now 7 of these kits. I still have the body of the car to do, so I am sure they will be used.
The tinware all painted with two coats. I think there will be enough for 3. I won't bother with the exhaust as I'm not sure if its ok or not. I haven't started it in over 2 years!A close up of the fan. Looking a lot better now.

Tuesday, 11 May 2010

Fuel tank

After some thought, I've decided to keep the fuel tank. A new one would be simpler but it is possible to refurbish the tank with kits that completely renew the inner wall after removing any unwanted deposits. It goes against my nature to get a new one, even though the cost is only about £20-30 different from a new tank, I'll refurbish. After all, if I wanted something new I wouldn't be driving a VW!The outside was straight forward. Just need to get that fuel tank kit.

Tuesday, 4 May 2010

Fan shroud

The fan shroud is quite rusty on its inaccessible insides. These wire brushes that fit my drill are whats left of the process so far.

The result is quite good. I'm never really going to be able to reach the inside though. So I thought I'd try a rust bath. One ordinary pallet becomes...
A bath frame?
Seems to be the right size and didn't take to long to make. Perhaps there's a few too many holes at the moment.
Just need to find some plastic sheeting and everything will be ready.

Sunday, 2 May 2010

Oil cooler

Needed to clean up the oil cooler. Wasn't going to be able to reach all the rust of course.It started to look good.

But then disaster as I went through some of the metal.
As you can see the hole is clearly visible. With possibly more holes to be uncovered, I'm not sure its worth the time and effort to repair this. At around £65 these aren't cheap.

Charging the battery

Got the original battery that came with the car. Not sure if it will hold much of a charge anymore.
Only one way to find out.
Got an old charger and hooked it up. Will probably need a new battery but its worth a try.

Kurust

So this is what I'm using on the tinware to stop the spread of rust.

No matter how much you try you can never remove all the rust. Unless that is, you want to start cutting bits out and welding in new bits.
A close-up of the finished surface after kurust.